Ascheri: a special cru within La Morra
The Ascheri MGAis located in the municipality of La Morra. Here, Ellena owns a compact plot of approximately 1 hectare, close to the historic family farm in Borgata Ascheri Sottani.
The plot was planted in 1969. The Nebbiolo vines were therefore over fifty years old at the time of the 2021 harvest. Old vines generally produce fewer grapes, but thanks to their extensive root systems, they can yield grapes with extra concentration and complexity.
The vineyard is situated at an altitude of approximately 340 metersand has a westerly to south-westerly exposure. As a result, it receives primarily afternoon and evening sun. At the same time, the altitude provides cooling and greater temperature differences between day and night, which is important for preserving the aromas and acidity of Nebbiolo.
Not the typical soft La Morra Barolo
La Morra is often associated with elegant, perfume-rich Barolos with relatively fine tannins. Ascheri is partially an exception to this.
The soil in this plot consists of a relatively compact combination of limestone and clayand contains fewer of the sandy components that can provide extra fragrance and softness in other parts of La Morra. As a result, Ellena's Ascheri possesses more structure, depth, and tannin than many other La Morra Barolos.
Precisely this combination makes the wine interesting: you get the refinement and aromatic side of La Morra, but also a firmer structure that somewhat resembles Barolo from the more powerful parts of the appellation.
Aromas and flavors
The Barolo Ascheri 2021opens with aromas of red cherry, wild forest fruits, and rose petals. With more air, more complex notes of dried herbs, spices, sandalwood, and a light balsamic and earthy nuance emerge.
Wine Enthusiast describes the 2021 as having, among other things, red cherry, wild berries, roses, sandalwood, incense-like notes, and dried spices. On the palate, the precision stands out: fresh acidity and well-integrated tannins give the wine tension and length.
The style is classic Nebbiolo. Not heavy or sweet, but dry, energetic, and structured, with red fruit, floral notes, and a long, spicy finish. The tannins are clearly present, but beautifully ripe in 2021.
This is a wine that shows power when young, but will develop increasingly complex nuances of dried roses, tobacco, leather, truffle, tea, and forest floor through bottle aging.
The vineyard in numbers
Giuseppe Ellena's Ascheri vineyard has an area of approximately 1 hectareand was planted in 1969. The plot is located at an altitude of circa 340 meters, with a westerly to south-westerly exposure.
The soil consists of calcareous clay. The maximum yield is only about 45 quintals per hectare, or approximately 4,500 kilos of grapes per hectare. This is significantly lower than the circa 6,000 kilos per hectare that Ellena reports for his Barolo del Comune di La Morra. The lower yield contributes to the greater concentration of the Ascheri.
In the rest of the estate, the family also works with short pruning and often two or three rounds of green harvesting to limit yields and increase the quality of the remaining grapes.
The 2021 vintage
2021 is among the strongest recent Barolo vintages.After a winter with sufficient water reserves, a growing season followed that eventually turned out warm and dry. Spring frost caused local damage, and the summer also saw little rainfall, but the accumulated water reserves helped the vines through the dry period.
From mid-September, temperatures dropped, especially at night. This was favorable for Nebbiolo: the grapes could ripen further phenotically without losing their natural freshness.
According to data collected by Alessandro Masnaghetti from nearly 200 producers, the average start of the Barolo harvest in 2021 was around October 7th, while some producers picked earlier and others significantly later. The result was generally small, healthy grapes with a high concentration of polyphenols – very suitable for producers who, like Ellena, work with long macerations.
When was the Ascheri 2021 picked?
Giuseppe Ellena mentions a manual harvest for Ascheri around mid-October. The grapes were therefore able to hang on the vine for a relatively long time, which is important for the late-ripening Nebbiolo to achieve full maturity of skins and tannins.
Traditional, long vinification
After the harvest, the grapes are fully destemmed. Alcoholic fermentation takes place using indigenous yeasts.
Ellena then opts for a very long skin maceration of approximately 45 to 60 days. During the first ten days, the skins are submerged regularly and the must is kept in motion. This is followed by a further five to seven weeks using the traditional cappello sommersomethod, where the skins remain beneath the liquid surface.
This long maceration is a perfect fit for the Ascheri. The old vines and compact limestone-clay soil provide grapes with sufficient concentration and tannins to handle such a traditional vinification.
The goal is not a Barolo that tastes as soft as possible immediately after bottling, but a wine with structure, terroir expression, and sufficient material to age in the bottle for years.
Aging in French oak
After alcoholic fermentation, malolactic fermentation takes place, after which the wine ages for approximately 30 months in wood.
For the 2021 Ascheri, the Cantina Comunale di La Morra mentions an interesting combination: approximately 18 months in French barriques, about 20% of which are new and 80% second-use, followed by approximately one year in larger wooden vats.
This partly explains the style of the wine. The smaller vat provides extra texture and refinement to the tannins during the first part of the maturation, while the subsequent aging in larger wood prevents the oak aroma from overpowering the Nebbiolo.
Ellena bottles the wine in the summer without filtration. It then receives another 9 to 12 months of bottle agingbefore being released. The alcohol content is 14.5%and the producer lists a total acidity of 5.8 g/l.
Ascheri versus Barolo del Comune di La Morra
Those hesitating between the two Barolos from Giuseppe Ellena will find a clear difference here.
The Barolo del Comune di La Morrais composed of multiple plots and places more emphasis on the floral, refined, and accessible side of La Morra.
The Ascheri, by contrast, comes from one hectare of old vines, planted in 1969, on a more compact limestone-clay soil and with a lower yield of only about 45 quintals per hectare. This makes the Ascheri more concentrated, firmer, and more structured.
Those primarily seeking elegance and early accessibility will gravitate towards the Comune. Those specifically seeking more depth, structure, and aging potentialwill find the more serious Barolo of the two in Ascheri.
Drink now or age?
The 2021 Ascherican already be drunk, but is clearly still at the beginning of its development. Wine Enthusiast recommends drinking from 2027, which fits well with the structure of this young Nebbiolo.
Those who open the wine young are best advised to open or decant it two to three hours in advance. Serve it at around 17–18°C in a large Nebbiolo or Burgundy glass.
For enthusiasts who enjoy aged Barolo, there is much to look forward to. A realistic drinking window is approximately 2027–2042+, depending on storage conditions and personal preference. Over the years, the primary red fruit and floral notes will continue to develop towards dried roses, tobacco, leather, spices, forest floor, and truffle.
Food pairings
The powerful yet refined structure of Ascheri makes it particularly suitable for classic Piedmontese and other rich dishes:
- Brasato al Baroloor slowly braised beef
- Ossobuco or veal cheeks
- Rack of lamb with rosemary
- Venison, roe deer, or wild boar
- Tajarin or pappardelle with ragù
- Risotto with porcini or white truffle
- Sautéed mushrooms with polenta
- Aged Parmigiano Reggiano, Castelmagno, or aged pecorino
The combination of fresh acidity, tannins, and aromatic complexity makes the wine especially strong with dishes containing sufficient protein, fat, and umami.
Short, catchy summary for conversion
The Giuseppe Ellena Barolo Ascheri 2021is a serious cru Barolo from La Morra, sourced from just one hectare of Nebbiolo vines planted in 1969. The old vines, calcareous clay soil, and low yield give the wine extra concentration and structure, while 2021 provides wonderful freshness and ripe tannins.
An excellent choice for the Barolo lover who wants to combine the elegance of La Morra with more power, depth, and aging potential.
