Cerequio 2021 – one of Barolo's great Crus
There are Barolos you buy because they are delicious, and there are Barolos where the origin itself is an important reason to want to own the wine. Cerequio belongs to the latter category.
The vineyard lies like a natural amphitheater between La Morra and the municipality of Barolo. Michele Chiarlo calls Cerequio one of the most prestigious Crus in the entire Barolo zone. This reputation is not new. As early as 1880, Lorenzo Fantini described Cerequio as a location of the highest quality, and Renato Ratti placed the vineyard in the highest category in his famous 1965 Barolo classification.
Cerequio is also known as the 'Riviera delle Langhe'. Its sheltered location, southern and southwestern exposure, and unique microclimate ensure that Nebbiolo can ripen excellently here.
The result is typically Cerequio: Barolo with sufficient power and structure, but above all with perfume, finesse, and harmony.
And it is precisely in 2021 that this character is particularly well expressed.
The difference with Tortoniano
For those hesitating between Tortoniano and Cerequio, the difference is quite simple.
Tortonianois Michele Chiarlo's more accessible Barolo, crafted to bring together different terroirs and the elegant house style.
Cerequiois a Cru Barolo. The wine is intended to express a specific origin and has more concentration, depth, length, and aging potential.
That doesn't necessarily make Cerequio 2021 the wine to choose if you want to open a Barolo next week. But if you're looking for a special bottle for the cellar, a gift for a wine lover, or a Barolo that showcases the quality of a great Cru, then Cerequio is clearly the step up.
The Cerequio vineyard
Michele Chiarlo acquired his vineyards in Cerequio in 1988from an estate that had been continuously cultivating grapes there for over two centuries. The first vintage of Barolo Cerequio that Chiarlo produced was also 1988.
For the Barolo Cerequio 2021, the winery states:
- Grape:100% Nebbiolo
- Vineyard:Cerequio
- Area for this wine:approximately 3 hectares
- Vine planting:1972–1990
- Altitude:approximately 320 meters
- Exposure:south and southwest
- Planting density:approximately 4,500 vines per hectare
- Pruning system:Guyot
- Harvest:entirely by hand.
In total, Michele Chiarlo now manages approximately six hectares within Cerequio. The oldest individual parcel of 0.9 hectares, planted in 1972, is used separately in exceptional years for the very exclusive Cerequio Riserva.
This underscores the importance of Cerequio within Michele Chiarlo's range.
The soil – nine-million-year-old Tortonian marl
The soil consists of calcareous clay marl of marine origin, formed during the Tortonian stage, about nine million years ago.
The soil has a relatively high pH, is poor in organic matter but rich in trace elements such as magnesium and especially manganese. Michele Chiarlo attributes wines that are simultaneously structured, refined, and aromatic to this soil.
That is precisely the appeal of Cerequio.
Nebbiolo can develop a serious tannin structure here without the wine becoming exclusively powerful. The best Cerequio combines precisely two qualities that are so attractive in great Barolo:
power and elegance.
Vintage 2021 – an exceptional Barolo year
For this wine, the vintage may be just as important as the Cru.
According to Stefano Chiarlo, 2021 began with a winter that finally brought sufficient snow and rain. In some Langhe vineyards, there was up to about 60 centimeters of snow. After an early start to the growing season, cooler April and May months followed, slowing down the development of the vines.
From June, a long, warm, and dry summer followed, but according to Chiarlo, without extreme heat.
Especially September and early Octoberultimately made the difference. Dry and sunny weather combined with large temperature differences between day and night ensured that Nebbiolo could ripen slowly and evenly. This is particularly important for the development of aromas, polyphenols, and especially ripe tannins.
Strict selection was made at the end of August. Only about five to six bunchesremained per vine, with parts of the bunches removed where necessary.
The Nebbiolo for Cerequio was then harvested entirely by hand between October 10 and 12, 2021– precisely within the classic harvest window for great Nebbiolo. According to Stefano Chiarlo, the grapes reached the cellar in exceptionally healthy and ripe condition.
Chiarlo himself qualifies 2021 as a five-star yearand compares its aging potential to great vintages like 2016 and 2010.
Vinification and aging
Even in the cellar, Cerequio is treated differently from a simple Barolo.
Alcoholic fermentation takes place in 55 hectoliter oak vats. This is followed by approximately 20 days of skin contact.
During fermentation, the pomace cap is gently kept moist with Michele Chiarlo's docciasystem. The temperature decreases from about 30°C to 27°C. Malolactic fermentation also takes place in the wooden vat.
Then the wine is given time.
Cerequio ages for two years in medium-sized oak barrels, followed by further bottle aging. The total aging period is at least three years.
Thus, there is no attempt to impart extra flavor to the wine through new wood. The goal is precisely to refine the structure of Nebbiolo and to preserve the terroir of Cerequio.
Aroma and taste of Cerequio 2021
The 2021 has everything we expect from a great Cerequio.
In the aroma, we find ripe red and dark fruit, complemented by mint, eucalyptus, gentian, and very fine spices. As the wine receives more air, more floral, balsamic, and spicy nuances appear.
On the palate, Cerequio 2021 is rich and concentrated, but never heavy.
The structure is powerful, with a dense network of very fine tannins. It is precisely the quality of these tannins that distinguishes a great Barolo from a merely powerful Nebbiolo: they give the wine structure and length without suppressing elegance.
Wine Enthusiast rated the wine 96/100and emphasizes the combination of ripe fruit, mint, eucalyptus, fine tannins, power, and elegance. The advice is to start drinking the wine from about 2027.
Other reviewers are also particularly positive:
98 points – Luca Gardini / L'Espresso
96 points – Kerin O'Keefe
94 points – Decanter.
Especially this combination of high ratings confirms that Cerequio 2021 belongs to the serious Barolos of this excellent vintage.
When to drink?
Cerequio 2021 can be drunk young, but this would not do the wine justice.
Our preference is:
2026–2028:only for those who appreciate young, powerful Nebbiolo. Decant for at least two to three hours.
2029–2035:the wine truly begins to open up. Fruit, flowers, herbs, and secondary aromas come together beautifully.
2035–2045+:for lovers of developed Barolo. Think dried roses, tobacco, leather, truffle, forest floor, and balsamic notes.
The strong vintage, old vines, acidity, and very good tannin structure give this wine, in our estimation, excellent aging potential. Wine Enthusiast also speaks of a wine that can evolve for decades.
Serve around 17–18°C.
Wine and food pairing
Michele Chiarlo recommends pairing Cerequio with eggs with white Alba truffle, lamb, veal braised in Barolo, and Castelmagno, among other dishes.
Other splendid combinations include:
- tajarin with white truffle;
- risotto with porcini;
- brasato al Barolo;
- veal cheek;
- rack of lamb;
- deer or venison;
- slow-cooked beef;
- pigeon;
- mushroom dishes;
- aged Parmigiano Reggiano.
This is an excellent wine for dishes with truffle, mushrooms, game, and slow-cooked meat.
For whom is Cerequio 2021 the right Barolo?
Choose Cerequio 2021 if you are looking not only for a good Barolo, but for a wine from one of the region's historic top terroirs.
It is especially an interesting choice for the enthusiast who:
- is looking for a true Cru Barolo;
- enjoys the elegant style of La Morra;
- values both power and finesse;
- can cellar wine for several years;
- or consciously wants to buy a top Barolo from the very strong 2021 vintage.
Those primarily looking for a Barolo to drink immediately will probably be better served by the Tortoniano 2022.
Those, however, seeking more depth, complexity, origin, and longevity, are taking a clear step up with Cerequio 2021.
Brunolo's choice
For us, Cerequio 2021 is a Barolo to buy and cellar.Not only because of the excellent vintage, but especially because of the combination of a historic Cru, vines planted between 1972 and 1990, and Michele Chiarlo's elegant, traditional style.
This is not a Barolo that derives its quality solely from power. It is precisely the combination of silky tannins, depth, perfume, and lengththat makes Cerequio special.
Those who buy one bottle can open it from around 2028–2030. Those who buy multiple bottles can follow the evolution of a great Barolo for many years.
A wonderful choice for the cellar and a convincing introduction to what a great Cru from La Morra can add to Nebbiolo.
