The 2021 Barolo Tortoniano is 100% Nebbiolo and beautifully demonstrates why this grape is called "the king of Piedmont." The nose offers inviting aromas of deep red fruits (cherry, raspberry), rose petals, and a hint of juniper, complemented by delicate spices like cloves and a subtle balsamic/leather note. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied yet refined: juicy red fruit, hints of dried herbs, tobacco, and a light truffle blend beautifully into a long, savory finish. The tannins are prominent, as befits Barolo, yet remarkably silky and polished, with a freshness that keeps the wine elegant and drinkable.
The name Tortoniano refers to the Tortonian soils on which Michele Chiarlo grows his Nebbiolo: ancient marine deposits from the Tortonian period, approximately 9 million years old. The grapes come from vineyards located between the municipalities of La Morra and Barolo, some of which belong to the prestigious Cerequio cru, supplemented by plots in other prime zones with the same Tortonian soil structure. The slopes are predominantly southeast to southwest-facing, ideal for maximizing daylight while maintaining cool nighttime temperatures. The vines are trained using the Guyot method, with summer thinnings to optimize vine health and grape concentration.
A significant portion of the blend comes from the Cerequio cru, one of Barolo's most prized vineyards. This vineyard comprises approximately 3 hectares, planted between 1972 and 1990, with approximately 4,500 vines per hectare. The combination of older vines and high planting density produces small, concentrated grapes with considerable aromatic complexity. The soils of Tortoniano Barolo are typical of La Morra and parts of Barolo, calcareous marl and clay, interspersed with Sant'Agata marl and greyish-blue sandstone, formed in the Tortonian period, approximately 9 million years ago, by marine sediments from an ancient seabed. The microelements are remarkably rich in magnesium and manganese, which, according to Chiarlo, contribute to the wine's finesse, aromatic complexity, and refined, mineral undertones. This combination of limestone, clay, and microelements gives Nebbiolo a more perfume-rich, elegant expression here, with softer tannins than in some of the more austere Barolo zones.
The 2021 vintage is generally regarded as a grand, classic vintage in Barolo, with a long, even growing season, culminating in a crucial phase in September and early October, during which dry, sunny days and cool nights allowed for a slow, full ripening of tannins and aromas. Michele Chiarlo's Nebbiolo took full advantage of these conditions. The grapes for Barolo Tortoniano 2021 were hand-harvested in early October, at a time when sugars, acidity, and phenolic ripeness were perfectly balanced.
The grapes are harvested entirely by hand and rigorously selected for ripeness and health. Fermentation takes place with skin contact in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for 17–18 days. Maceration takes place on the skins, allowing for slow and even extraction of color, tannins, and aromas. A gentle shower system is used to submerge the skins; this prevents harsh extraction and keeps the tannins fine and silky. The fermentation temperature is around 27–32°C. Malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel to preserve the purity and precision of the fruit. Maturation takes place for 24 months in large oak vats (traditional large barrels, no noticeable new wood aromas). This is followed by at least 12 months of bottle aging before release. The result is a Barolo that remains true to the classic style – structure, depth, aging potential – but with a more approachable, refined profile in its youth.
Wine and food pairings for the Barolo Tortoniano 2021 call for serious dishes, but its elegance makes it surprisingly versatile at the table:
- Classic Piedmont: Tajarin al ragù di vitello (fine egg pasta with veal ragù) Brasato al Barolo (beef stewed in Barolo)
- Dishes with fresh or grated truffle (e.g. risotto or tagliatelle)
Red meat & game: Rack of lamb with rosemary and garlic, venison steak or roe deer with a red wine and herb sauce, pigeon braised in Barolo, or other refined game dishes.
- Cheeses: Matured hard cheeses (Parmigiano Reggiano, Grana Padano, aged pecorino) Blue cheeses with some sweetness (for example with fig compote), where the structure and acidity of the wine cut through nicely
Ideally, serve the Tortoniano at around 16–18°C in a large Burgundy or Nebbiolo glass to maximize its aromatic finesse. Decant the wine, or open the bottle at least 4 hours before serving.
