Brunello di Montalcino is among Italy's most beloved wines, but not all Brunello wines are created equal . Within the rolling hills surrounding the Tuscan town of Montalcino , remarkable differences in climate, soil, and altitude create diverse Brunello styles. In this article, we delve deeper into the sub-regions of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG—from the cool north (Montosoli) to the warm south (Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate)—and discover how terroir and even the annual weather influence the quality and flavor of Brunello.

Climate and terroir: north versus south

Montalcino's vineyards form a ring around the town, with cooler zones in the north and warmer zones in the south . Elevation plays a significant role: higher-elevation vineyards (up to approximately 500+ meters) experience cooler nights and later ripening, while lower-elevation, southern vineyards are hotter and drier. A clear example was the peak vintage of 2016, when some southern vineyards harvested 3 to 4 weeks earlier than those in the higher altitudes. Besides temperature, the soils also differ: generally, lower, southern terrain has more heavy clay (which can produce powerful, tannic wines), while higher-elevation soils are stonier (galestro-limestone, marl), which contributes to finesse and good drainage.

Monte Amiata , the extinct volcano southeast of Montalcino, is a crucial factor in the local climate. This 1,738-meter-high mountain acts as a natural umbrella , protecting the vineyards from extremes such as heavy rain, hailstorms, and even frost. At the same time, the slopes of Amiata generate cool air currents that blow over the southeastern vineyards in the evenings, particularly, causing a significant drop in nighttime temperatures . This day-night difference ("diurnal range") is beneficial: it preserves acidity and aromas in the grapes despite the warm days. Thus, each part of Montalcino has its own unique microclimate—from warm Mediterranean in the south to almost continental cool in the north—and this, along with the geology, explains the enormous terroir diversity of Brunello di Montalcino.

(While these differences are obvious, the region does not (yet) have official sub-zones. There is a debate among producers about whether "zonazione" is useful: some fear that less prestigious lower-lying areas with clay soils are being disadvantaged, while others point to the Barolo DOCG and Burgundy as examples where recognition of terroir actually provides consumers with a sense of security. In practice, more and more houses proudly list their specific vineyards on their labels, and Brunello connoisseurs now know the "crus" of Montalcino by heart.)

Montosoli: elegance from the north

Montosoli is a small hill north of Montalcino that is considered one of the best terroirs of the appellation Here at an altitude of approximately 250–300 metres the climate is slightly cooler and the soil is exceptional: a mix of calcareous galestro stone and marl This combination produces wines of striking elegance: refined tannins, high aromatic intensity and an almost salty minerality, while still possessing the power and structure that is characteristic of Brunello. Montosoli was praised early on; in the late 1970s, Valdicava , Altesino, and Caparzo bottled the first single-vineyard Brunellos (the "Montosoli" cru) here, emphasizing the unique qualities of this hillside. Brunellos from Montosoli are still synonymous with finesse – often boasting slightly more floral notes and lively acidity compared to wines from warmer parts of Montalcino. Nello Baricci, a local pioneer who has owned all his vineyards on Montosoli since 1955, called the southeast-facing slope with its limestone the "sweet spot" for Brunello. When you taste a top wine from Montosoli, you taste Brunello at its most refined.

Major producers (North/Montosoli): Altesino (Montosoli cru), Baricci, Caparzo, Canalicchio di Sopra , Valdicava , Il Marroneto.

Sant'Angelo in Colle: warm and powerful south

While Montosoli displays the elegant side, Sant'Angelo in Colle —a village on the southwestern hills—is known for Brunellos of power and concentration . This historic Brunello region (many of the founders of the Consorzio in 1967 came from Sant'Angelo) lies on south-facing slopes that are fully exposed to the sun and influenced by Monte Amiata. The soil here contains more clay and sand, which contributes to robustly structured, richer wines. Brunellos from Sant'Angelo in Colle often have a deeper color, generous ripe fruit (black fruit, plums), and powerful tannins—in short, the most "muscular" style of Brunello. Yet, there is nuance: many vineyards are located around 300–400 meters above sea level, allowing the nights to cool down sufficiently to maintain balance. Producers like Il Poggione and Lisini (both located near Sant'Angelo) have been proving for decades that this area can produce wines that are not only powerful, but also complex and elegant in their prime. It is also home to some of the oldest Brunello vines; Il Poggione's famous "Vigna Paganelli" vineyard (planted in 1964) is located in Sant'Angelo in Colle and produces concentrated, classic Brunello that ages beautifully.

Major producers (Southwest/Sant'Angelo in Colle): Il Poggione, Col d'Orcia, Lisini, Argiano, Tenuta di Sesta, Collemattoni, Giodo.

Castelnuovo dell'Abate: balance between power and finesse

From the heights of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, one looks out over valleys filled with morning mist. This southeastern zone of Montalcino is the warmest, but benefits from constant breezes along the Orcia Valley and cool air from Monte Amiata, which creates significant temperature differences between day and night. This wind and coolness protect the vineyards from disease and preserve acidity and aromas, allowing Brunellos from Castelnuovo to be both ripe and powerful , yet fresh and fragrant.

In the far southeast of the appellation, near the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, lies Castelnuovo dell'Abate . This is the warmest sub-region of Brunello: summers can be scorching, and the Sangiovese effortlessly reaches full ripeness here. At the same time, the proximity of Monte Amiata and the open valleys provide cooling at night and ample breeze. The result is a fascinating balance : Brunellos from Castelnuovo dell'Abate often combine the depth, body, and rich fruitiness of a warm climate with the freshness and aromatic refinement of a cooler terroir. Wines from these slopes (150–400 m altitude) are typically darker in color, fuller in the mouth, and almost exotic in aroma compared to those from the north. In blind tastings, connoisseurs often recognise Castelnuovo Brunellos by their voluptuous yet elegant character – Guido Di Spenza of the Mastrojanni winery, for example, notes that in 15 years of tasting, he almost always picks out the Castelnuovo wines.

Castelnuovo dell'Abate saw a major expansion of plantings in the 1990s as producers from cooler northern zones sought land here to soften and ripen their tannic wines. Thanks to conscious planting (for example, row orientation to prevent sunburn) and careful vineyard management, Castelnuovo's best wines are not cumbersome "fruit bombs," but controlled, balanced powerhouses . Andrea Cortonesi of Azienda Uccelliera—a top estate in this area—emphasizes that Castelnuovo's unique style is now recognized worldwide and beloved by collectors. Here, one also finds a patchwork of soil types (from sand and clay to limestone), which contributes to the complexity of aromas. In lower elevations near the Orcia River, Sangiovese thrives on sandier soils (providing aroma and softness), while higher elevations contain more lime and galestro (providing structure and freshness). Interestingly, elevation differences within this single sub-region already create variation: for example, the Poggio di Sotto winery harvests the grapes from its lowest plots a month earlier than those from the highest vineyards in Castelnuovo. This illustrates how microclimate and location play a major role, even locally.

All in all, the Brunellos from Castelnuovo dell'Abate deliver ultimate balance : lush fruit and power (thanks to the southern heat) coupled with vibrant acidity, floral and herbal aromas, and a certain refinement that lends excellent elegance to bottle aging . It's no wonder that this "unofficial subzone" has become a favorite of many Brunello enthusiasts in recent years.

Major producers (Southeast/Castelnuovo dell'Abate): Poggio di Sotto , Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona , Mastrojanni, Uccelliera, Le Ragnaie (Fornace vineyard), Stella di Campalto, Caparzo (Vigna La Casa near Sant'Antimo).

High and cool: classic terroirs on the eastern hills

Besides the distinct northern and southern slopes, Montalcino also boasts high-altitude vineyards immediately surrounding the town and to the east . Here, at 400–500 meters above sea level, we find soils rich in marl, limestone, and schist, formed from ancient geological formations. The microclimate is somewhat cooler and very suitable for traditional Brunellos with long aging potential. Historic producers like Biondi-Santi (who “invented” Brunello in the 19th century) deliberately planted their vineyards on the higher slopes of Le Crete and Pievecchia at 450+ meters. Fuligni and Salvioni are other examples of estates just southeast of Montalcino town, with vineyards at 380–450 meters on calcareous, stony soil. They emphasize that altitude is a crucial factor for top quality: the slower ripening yields more aroma and acid balance, while the strong winds at this altitude ward off fungal diseases. Fuligni's elegant Brunellos demonstrate how this terroir can yield refined acidity and floral notes without sacrificing concentration. Cerbaiona (in the Le Crete subzone) also boasts a uniquely high altitude; its limestone and sandy soils produce exceptionally refined, almost ethereal wines. Biondi-Santi itself, at 480 meters, often harvests remarkably early to maximize the natural acidity – their young Brunellos taste austere and sparse in their youth, but develop in the bottle into true iconic wines after decades of cellaring . For lovers of traditional, long-aging Brunello, these high-altitude eastern vineyards are a paradise.

Main producers (Central/High East): Biondi-Santi (Il Greppo) , Fuligni, Salvioni, Cerbaiona, Pian dell'Orino, Padelletti.

Influence of the weather: warm and cool years

Besides terroir differences, the vintage also plays a major role in Brunello. Some years are hot and dry, others cooler or wetter – and the various regions respond differently. In warm years (e.g., 2015, 2017), the higher-elevation and northern vineyards often prove advantageous: they retain more acidity and freshness, and achieve more balanced alcohol levels, while the hottest southern plots risk overripe grapes or dehydration. In cool, wet years (such as 2013 or the challenging 2014), the opposite is true: the warmer south-facing slopes can then provide sufficient ripeness, body, and alcohol, while in extremely cool zones, the fruit sometimes remains somewhat sparse or green. Or, as wine expert Tim Atkin MW succinctly put it: "In cooler years, wines from the southern zones add body and weight; in warmer years, wines from the northern zones bring freshness and balance." Fortunately, Brunello producers have a trick up their sleeve: many estates own vineyards in multiple sub-zones and can thus blend grapes to achieve the optimal balance each year. It's not unusual for a winemaker, for example, to blend slightly earlier-harvested, crisp Sangiovese from the north with fuller, late-harvested fruit from the south to create a harmonious whole.

One example is the renowned Casanova di Neri estate, which has 48 hectares of vineyards spread across four distinct terroirs – from the warm southeastern Pietradonice vineyard (Castelnuovo dell'Abate) and the southwestern Cetine (Sant'Angelo in Colle) to plots in the cool northeast near Torrenieri. This spread allows them to select and blend grapes of optimal quality in every vintage. The results are evident in their wines: the renowned Casanova di Neri Brunello "Tenuta Nuova" combines concentration with elegance and was, not without reason, named "Best Wine in the World" by Wine Spectator in 2006 (for the 2001 vintage). Such an achievement underscores the importance of terroir – and how craftsmanship and insight into the microclimate of each year can make the difference between a good and an excellent Brunello .

Terroir in the glass – taste the differences

For Brunello lovers, discovering these terroir differences is a true delight. Each sub-zone adds its own distinct touch to the Sangiovese Grosso grape: from the fragrant finesse of Montosoli and the robust warmth of Sant'Angelo to the harmonious complexity of Castelnuovo and the classic freshness of the high-altitude eastern slopes. Thanks to the efforts of winemakers to vinify their crus separately or perfect blends, we can now experience the entire mosaic of Montalcino in the glass.

Brunello isn't just one flavor, but a palette—shaped by soil, location, and even the weather. Anyone who wants to delve deeper can discover a world of Brunello at Brunolo.nl.

In short, Brunello is a wine with many faces – and that makes every bottle, from every region and every vintage, a captivating journey of discovery for the wine lover. Enjoy the richness that Montalcino has to offer, and salute !

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