Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most beloved wines, but not all Brunello wines are created equal . Within the rolling hills surrounding the Tuscan town of Montalcino, there are notable differences in climate, soil, and altitude that produce a variety of Brunello styles. In this article, we’ll delve into the sub-regions of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG – from the cool north (Montosoli) to the warm south (Sant’Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell’Abate) – and discover how terroir and even the weather from year to year can impact the quality and flavor of Brunello.

Climate and terroir: north versus south

The vineyards of Montalcino are located in a ring around the town, with cooler zones in the north and warmer in the south . The difference in altitude plays a major role here: higher vineyards (up to approx. 500+ meters) have cooler nights and later ripening, while lower, southern vineyards are hotter and drier. A clear example was the top vintage of 2016, in which some southern vineyards harvested 3 to 4 weeks earlier than the northern vineyards on higher terrain. In addition to temperature, the soils also differ: in general, lower, southern terrain has more heavy clay (which can provide powerful, tannin-rich wines), while higher up the soil is stonier (galestro limestone, marl) which contributes to finesse and good drainage.

Monte Amiata , the extinct volcano southeast of Montalcino, is a crucial factor in the local climate. This 1,738-meter-high mountain acts as a natural umbrella : it protects the vineyards from extremes such as heavy rain, hailstorms and even frost. At the same time, the slopes of Amiata generate cool air currents that blow over the southeastern vineyards in the evening, causing a significant drop in temperature at night . This day-night difference (“diurnal range”) is beneficial: it preserves acidity and aromas in the grapes despite the warm days. Thus, each part of Montalcino has its own microclimate – from Mediterranean warm in the south to almost continental cool in the north – and together with the geology this explains the enormous terroir diversity of Brunello di Montalcino.

(While these distinctions are obvious, the region does not (yet) have official sub-zones. There is debate among producers about whether “zonazione” is useful: some fear that less prestigious low-lying clay zones are being disadvantaged, while others point to Barolo DOCG and Burgundy as examples where recognition of terroir actually gives consumers something to hold on to. In practice, more and more houses are proudly listing their specific vineyards on their labels, and Brunello connoisseurs now know the “crus” of Montalcino by heart.)

Montosoli: elegance from the north

Montosoli is a small hill north of Montalcino that is considered one of the best terroirs of the appellation Here at an altitude of around 250–300 metres the climate is slightly cooler and the soil is exceptional: a mix of calcareous galestro stone and marl This combination produces wines with striking elegance: refined tannins, high aromatic intensity and an almost salty minerality, while still possessing the power and structure that is characteristic of Brunello Montosoli was praised early on; in the late 1970s, Valdicava , Altesino and Caparzo bottled the first single-vineyard Brunellos (the cru “Montosoli”) here, to emphasise the unique quality of this hill. Brunellos from Montosoli are still synonymous with finesse – often with slightly more floral notes and lively acidity compared to wines from warmer parts of Montalcino. Nello Baricci, a local pioneer who has had all his vineyards on Montosoli since 1955, called the southeast-facing slope with its limestone the “sweet spot” for Brunello When you taste a top wine from Montosoli, you taste Brunello at its most refined.

Major producers (North/Montosoli): Altesino (Montosoli cru), Baricci, Caparzo, Canalicchio di Sopra , Valdicava , Il Marroneto.

Sant'Angelo in Colle: warm and powerful south

Where Montosoli shows the elegant side, Sant’Angelo in Colle – a village on the southwestern hills – is known for Brunellos of power and concentration . This historic Brunello area (many of the founders of the Consorzio in 1967 came from Sant’Angelo) is located on south-facing slopes that get plenty of sun and are influenced by Monte Amiata. The soils here are more clay and sand, which contribute to firmly structured, richer wines. Brunellos from Sant’Angelo in Colle tend to have deeper color, generous ripe fruit (black fruits, plums) and powerful tannins – in short, the most “muscular” style of Brunello. Yet there is nuance: many vineyards are around 300–400 meters above sea level, which means the nights still cool down enough to maintain balance. Producers such as Il Poggione and Lisini (both located near Sant'Angelo) have been proving for decades that this area can produce wines that are not only powerful but also complex and elegant in their prime. It is also home to some of the oldest Brunello vines; Il Poggione's famous 'Vigna Paganelli' vineyard (planted 1964) is located in Sant'Angelo in Colle and produces concentrated, classic Brunello that ages beautifully.

Major producers (Southwest/Sant'Angelo in Colle): Il Poggione, Col d'Orcia, Lisini, Argiano, Tenuta di Sesta, Talenti, Giodo.

Castelnuovo dell'Abate: balance between power and finesse

From the heights of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, one looks out over valleys filled with morning mist. This southeastern zone of Montalcino is the warmest, but benefits from constant breezes along the Orcia Valley and cool air from Monte Amiata, which creates large temperature differences between day and night. These winds and cooling protect the vineyards from disease and preserve acidity and aromas, so that Brunellos from Castelnuovo can be both ripe and powerful and fresh and perfumed.

In the far southeast of the appellation, near the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, lies Castelnuovo dell'Abate . This is the warmest sub-area of ​​Brunello: summers can be scorching hot and the Sangiovese effortlessly reaches full ripeness here. At the same time, the proximity of Monte Amiata and the open valleys provide cooling at night and sufficient wind. The result is a fascinating balance : Brunellos from Castelnuovo dell'Abate often combine the depth, body and rich fruitiness of a warm climate with the freshness and aromatic refinement of a cooler terroir. Wines from these slopes (150–400 m altitude) are generally darker in color, fuller in the mouth and almost exotic in scent, compared to those from the north. In blind tastings, connoisseurs often recognise Castelnuovo Brunellos by their voluptuous yet elegant character – Guido Di Spenza of the Mastrojanni winery notes that in 15 years of tasting, he almost always picks out the Castelnuovo wines.

Castelnuovo dell'Abate saw a major expansion of plantings in the 1990s as producers from cooler northern zones sought land here to smoothen and ripen their tannic wines. Thanks to deliberate planting (such as row orientation to prevent sunburn) and careful vineyard management, the best wines from Castelnuovo are not lumbering “fruit bombs” but controlled, balanced powerhouses . Andrea Cortonesi of Azienda Uccelliera – a top estate in the area – points out that Castelnuovo’s unique style is now recognised worldwide and loved by collectors. Here, too, one finds a patchwork of soil types (from sand and clay to limestone), which contributes to the complexity of aromas. In lower areas near the Orcia river, the Sangiovese thrives on sandier soils (providing aroma and softness), while higher up there is more lime and galestro in the soil (providing structure and freshness). An interesting phenomenon is that differences in altitude within this one sub-area already create variation: for example, the Poggio di Sotto winery harvests the grapes from its lowest plots a month earlier than those from the highest vineyards in Castelnuovo This illustrates how microclimate and location play a major role even locally.

All in all, the Brunellos of Castelnuovo dell'Abate deliver the ultimate balance : lush fruit and power (thanks to the southern heat) coupled with lively acidity, floral and spicy aromas, and a certain refinement that makes for excellent elegance in bottle ageing . No wonder this "unofficial sub-zone" has become a favorite of many Brunello lovers in recent years.

Major producers (Southeast/Castelnuovo dell'Abate): Poggio di Sotto , Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona , Mastrojanni, Uccelliera, Le Ragnaie (Fornace vineyard), Stella di Campalto, Caparzo (Vigna La Casa near Sant'Antimo).

High and cool: classic terroirs on the eastern hills

In addition to the pronounced northern and southern areas, Montalcino also has high-altitude vineyards directly surrounding the town and towards the east . Here, at 400–500 metres above sea level, we find soils full of marl, limestone and schist that have been formed from the ancient geological formations. The microclimate here is somewhat cooler and very suitable for traditional Brunellos with long aging potential. Historical producers such as Biondi-Santi (who “invented” Brunello in the 19th century) deliberately planted their vineyards on the higher slopes of Le Crete and Pievecchia at 450+ m. Fuligni and Salvioni are other examples of estates just southeast of Montalcino town, with vineyards at 380–450 m altitude on chalky, stony soils. They point out that altitude is a crucial factor for top quality: the slower ripening gives more aroma and acid balance, while the strong winds at this altitude ward off fungal diseases. Fuligni's elegant Brunellos show how this terroir can produce refined acidity and floral notes without losing concentration. Cerbaiona (in the Le Crete subzone) also enjoys a uniquely high altitude; its limestone and sandy soils produce exceptionally refined, almost ethereal wines. Biondi-Santi itself often harvests remarkably early at an altitude of 480 m in order to retain the natural acidity as much as possible - their young Brunellos therefore taste austere and lean in their youth, but develop in the bottle into true icon wines after decades of cellar rest . For lovers of traditional, long-aging Brunello, these high-altitude eastern vineyards are a paradise.

Important producers (Central/High East): Biondi-Santi (Il Greppo) , Fuligni, Salvioni, Cerbaiona, Pian dell'Orino, Padelletti.

Influence of the weather: warm and cool years

In addition to terroir differences, the vintage also plays a major role in Brunello. Some years are hot and dry, others cooler or wetter – and the different sub-regions respond differently to this. In warm years (for example 2015, 2017), the higher and northern vineyards often prove to have the advantage: they retain more acidity, freshness and achieve more balanced alcohol values, while the hottest southern plots run the risk of overripe grapes or dehydration. In cool, wet years (such as 2013 or the challenging 2014), it is the other way around: the warmer southern slopes can then provide sufficient ripening, body and alcohol, while in extremely cool zones the fruit sometimes remains a bit thin or green. Or, as wine expert Tim Atkin MW succinctly put it: “In cooler years, wines from the southern zones add body and weight; in warmer years, wines from the northern zones bring freshness and balance” . Fortunately, Brunello producers have a trick up their sleeve: many houses own vineyards in multiple subzones and can blend grapes to achieve the optimal balance each year. It’s not uncommon for a winemaker to blend, for example, slightly earlier-picked, crisp Sangiovese from the north with fuller, late-picked fruit from the south to create a harmonious whole.

One example is the renowned Casanova di Neri estate, which has 48 hectares of vineyards spread over four different terroirs – from the warm southeastern Pietradonice vineyard (Castelnuovo dell'Abate) and the southwestern Cetine (Sant'Angelo in Colle) to plots in the cool northeastern area near Torrenieri. This spread allows them to select and combine grapes of optimum quality in every type of year. The result can be tasted in their wines: the famous Casanova di Neri Brunello “Tenuta Nuova” combines concentration with elegance and was not for nothing named “Best Wine in the World” by Wine Spectator in 2006 (for the 2001 vintage). Such an achievement underlines the importance of the concept of terroir – and how craftsmanship and insight into the microclimate of each year can make the difference between a good and an excellent Brunello .

Terroir in the glass – taste the differences

For the Brunello lover, discovering these terroir differences is a great pleasure. Each sub-zone adds its own accent to the Sangiovese Grosso grape: from the fragrant finesse of Montosoli, the robust warmth of Sant'Angelo, to the harmonious complexity of Castelnuovo and the classic freshness of the high eastern slopes. Thanks to the efforts of winemakers to vinify their crus separately or perfect blends, we can now experience the entire mosaic of Montalcino in the glass.

Brunello is not one taste, but a palette – formed by soil, location and even the weather. Those who want to delve into this can discover a world of Brunello at Brunolo.nl.

In short, Brunello is a wine with many faces – and that makes every bottle, from every region and every vintage, a fascinating journey of discovery for the wine lover time and again. Enjoy the richness that Montalcino has to offer, and salute !

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